GUITAR BOARD

Hi,

I just posted this in rec.music.makers.guitar and then found this
group. As Im in the UK it seems like the better place. So apologies
for crossposting, but...

Ive got an alder strat body from Warmoth with a vintage-style 6 post
bridge fitted. But the bridge posts dont lock down if you screw them
in all the way, they just turn forever. The thread in the wood must be
stripped, or the woods too soft or...

Ive been told I should drill out the bridge post holes, plug them with
hardwood dowel and redrill.

Hardwood dowel doesnt seem that easy to source, but Ive managed to
find some walnut dowel via a model making shop here in the UK. Ive
ordered some 6mm, 8mm and 10mm diameter dowel.

So the question is, given that this operation should improve the tone,
should I be looking to plug with as large a piece of dowel as possible,
or as small? ie: the bigger the diameter, the more volume of walnut and
larger circumference to transmit the resonance to the alder body - or
should I be looking to plug with as little walnut as possible?

The body was bought to replace a Japanese basswood body, but it doesnt
have anything like the vibrancy of the basswood. Ive no idea whether
this is the fault of the ill-fitting bridge, or if its just a poor
piece of alder.

BTW: theres a good article on electric guitar tonewoods including
walnut and alder at jemsite.com.
<http://www.jemsite.com/jem/wood.htm>

Any ideas or suggestions before I stick my body under a benchdrill?


--
Jim

--
50th Anniversary Edition
http://www.jamesbisset.com/blog/

On 11 Jun, 11:35, JimmyB wrote:

JimmyB wrote:


The problem I would have with inserting dowels is that you are then
screwing into end grain which is not really the best condition. If it
loosened before, it will probably loosen again even more quickly.

If it were my guitar, I would route out an oblong area encompassing the
six screw holes and glue in a block of alder so that Its nice and snug.
This way, when I drill and insert the screws Im screwing across the
grain not into end grain.

I realize that Im saying this not knowing your skill level or the
machines you have available to you so sorry if its not in the scope of
possibility for you. But if you have access to good tools and are adept
at fixturing, you might consider this method.

Actually, if it were my guitar, I might even route and glue as described
above and then install two threaded inserts for a two point floating
trem! Combined with locking tuning machines, they really hold tuning
much better than the vintage 6 hole versions.

Either way, develop your drilling template for the screw pilot hole
operation BEFORE you make any modifications. For example, a clear
plastic template that uses the neck pocket as a reference. Imagine a
clear plastic part that has a neck heel shaped block glued to one
end.... You get the idea.

Peace!

DV

JimmyB wrote:

Dont bother with hardwood or with re-drilling. Just use a matchstick in
each hole and trim it off level with the top of the hole. Thatll do the
job just fine.

On 11 Jun, 16:11, JNugent wrote:

Im with you. In most cases this is the all you need to do. If he
wants to get a bit fussy and ensure the screw stays in the middle of
the hole, just split the end of the match stick before its put in the
hole.

Cliff

On Wed, 11 Jun 2008 16:11:12 +0100, JNugent wrote:



Or, use cocktail sticks. thin and tapered so you can cram them down
into the tapering hole easily and also get a nice tight group of them
in there.

The wood tends to be a little harder than matchstick wood, too.

Steve.

JimmyB wrote in message
news:2008061111354975249-spam@jazzrascalscom...

I dont know the history of this - whether its a new body or where you got
the bridge and screws from but...

...are the screws the right ones? If not, could bigger screws be the answer?

Are *all* the screws not biting? You can get away with only a couple being
screwed all the way in. You should *not* screw them down tight anyway as it
impedes the movement of the tremolo. Just nip them up lightly against the
bridge plate with the plate flat on the body.

Anyhow, assuming you do have the correct screws, the way I would fix this is
to remove the screws and bridge, then run superglue (the guitar techs best
friend) down the screw holes and (very important this bit) let it dry .
Completely. If you dont, you will glue the screws in and theyll have to be
drilled out next time.

You should now find that the screws will bite in the holes and might even be
a bit tight. Lubricate the holes before you insert the screws with candle
wax so that they dont bind.

HTH
Steve.

On 2008-06-11 18:25:23 +0100, Steve Robinson
said:


Thanks for all the suggestions folk :)

history: new body from Warmoth with Warmoth supplied unbranded
quality vintage bridge - unfinished body with pre-drilled holes. I
eventually replaced the bridge with a Wilkinson vintage (steel block)
but neither bridge has ever stayed in tune. I guess that could be the
fault of the nut or the string tree, but I cant use the tremelo at all.

In order to kill several birds with one stone, I ordered a Bill
Callaham narrow strat bridge.
<http://www.callahamguitars.com>
This would help stop the outside strings falling off the fretboard when
vigorously played; I could cut a new (graphite) nut to match and, if
price is any indication, have an awesome tone to match.

It was Bill Callaham who proposed hardwood dowel when I suggested that
I could just pack the holes with matches :)

A couple of the screws bite, but the rest dont, and one of them is so
slack I cant even unscrew it without using needlenose pliers. In fact,
Ive just taken it out to confirm, and was able to push it straight
back in without any screwing at all. Which makes it difficult to follow
the screw all the way in and then back off half a turn technique.

The Callaham supplied screws are a quarter inch longer than the inch
long screws supplied with the other bridges, but the same diameter (if
thats the right word to use for screws).

I have neither the skills nor the equipment to cut out and replace a
block Im afraid. In fact these days, I dont seem to have the skill to
do anything that doesnt include an undo key.

Frankly, some variation on the packing with matches or lining with
superglue is the most tempting. Ive had one suggestion to use hardwood
barbecue skewers too, split into slivers.

Anyone need a few metres of walnut dowel, going cheap?

;)


--
Jim

--
50th Anniversary Edition
http://www.jamesbisset.com/blog/